Elizabeth David – An Omelette And A Glass of Wine – First Edition

Elizabeth David – An Omelette And A Glass of Wine – First Edition

Author: Elizabeth David
Price: £40
Publisher: Jill Norman
Publication Date: 1984
Format: Original cloth. Dustwrapper
Condition: Near fine in very good dustwrapper
Pages: 318
Edition: First edition

Location: OSR: 002599

First edition. A near fine, tight, clean copy in very good, slightly rubbed dustwrapper which is very slightly stained to the head of the spine.

Elizabeth David: A Short Biography

Early Life and Background
Elizabeth David, born Elizabeth Gwynne on 26 December 1913, in Sussex, England, was one of the most influential figures in British culinary history. She was the second of four daughters born to Rupert Gwynne, a Conservative Member of Parliament, and Stella Gwynne, whose family owned Wootton Manor, a grand estate in East Sussex. Raised in a privileged but emotionally distant household, David’s early years were marked by the rigid expectations of her class and the formality of Edwardian England.

Educated at St Clare’s boarding school and later at Sorbonne University in Paris, she cultivated a love for literature, art, and culture. Her time in Paris introduced her to a more relaxed and sophisticated approach to food, which contrasted sharply with the bland fare of her English upbringing.

Early Travels and Influences
In 1930, Elizabeth David began a journey that would shape her culinary ethos. She travelled extensively across Europe, immersing herself in the cultures and cuisines of France, Italy, and Greece. This period of exploration ignited her passion for food, particularly the Mediterranean way of eating, which emphasised fresh ingredients, simplicity, and vibrant flavours.

During the late 1930s, she pursued a brief career as an actress and artist’s model in London. Her adventurous spirit led her to Greece in 1939, where she lived on the island of Syros. When World War II erupted, David’s life took an unexpected turn, and she fled Greece, eventually finding refuge in Egypt.

World War II and Culinary Awakening
David spent much of the war in the Middle East, including time in Cairo and Alexandria, where she worked for the British government. It was here that she met and married Tony David, an officer in the Indian Army. The marriage, however, was short-lived, and the couple separated after the war.

Her years in the Mediterranean and North Africa were transformative. Exposed to the culinary traditions of these regions, she developed an appreciation for fresh, seasonal ingredients and the communal nature of cooking. These influences would later define her writing.

Post-War Return to England
Elizabeth David returned to England in 1946 to find a nation still grappling with post-war austerity. Rationing was in full effect, and the British diet was largely limited to tinned, bland, and uninspired food. This culinary bleakness inspired David to share the vibrant flavours she had encountered abroad.

Writing Career Begins
Her first book, A Book of Mediterranean Food, was published in 1950. It introduced British readers to the cuisines of France, Italy, Greece, and North Africa, painting a vivid picture of sun-drenched markets, fragrant herbs, and fresh seafood. While many of the ingredients she described—like olive oil, aubergines, or courgettes—were almost impossible to find in post-war Britain, the book offered a tantalising glimpse of culinary possibility.

David’s writing style was as much a revelation as her recipes. Combining literary elegance with practical advice, her books were as much about evoking a way of life as they were about cooking. She followed her debut with French Country Cooking (1951), Italian Food (1954), and Summer Cooking (1955), each of which expanded her influence and cemented her reputation.

Philosophy and Impact
Elizabeth David’s philosophy centred on simplicity, seasonality, and the joy of good ingredients. She advocated for using local, fresh produce and eschewed the fussy, overwrought recipes that were popular at the time. Her disdain for artificiality and processed foods was evident in both her writing and her personal life.

David also brought a scholarly approach to her work, delving into the historical and cultural contexts of the dishes she described. She was a meticulous researcher, often translating old manuscripts and consulting rare texts to ensure authenticity.

Her books revolutionised British cooking, inspiring home cooks and professional chefs alike. Figures such as Jamie Oliver, Nigel Slater, and Nigella Lawson have cited her as a significant influence.

Later Life and Challenges
In 1963, David opened her own shop, Elizabeth David Ltd., in Pimlico, London. It specialised in high-quality cookware and imported ingredients, furthering her mission to elevate British culinary standards. However, running the shop proved stressful, and she eventually sold it in 1973.

Despite her success, David’s personal life was often tumultuous. She was known for her sharp tongue and uncompromising nature, which sometimes alienated those around her. She remained private, with close friends describing her as both intensely passionate and deeply reserved.

Health issues plagued her later years, including a serious stroke in 1963, which temporarily halted her writing. Nevertheless, she continued to produce influential works, such as English Bread and Yeast Cookery (1977), a meticulous study of traditional bread-making techniques.

Death and Legacy
Elizabeth David died on 22 May 1992, aged 78, at her Chelsea home in London. She left behind a legacy that transformed the British culinary landscape. Her work bridged the gap between the bland, utilitarian cooking of post-war Britain and the vibrant, ingredient-driven cuisine we recognise today.

David’s influence endures through her books, which remain in print, and her philosophy, which continues to inspire chefs and food writers worldwide. In 2013, she was posthumously honoured with a blue plaque at her former Chelsea home, recognising her contributions to British culture.

Elizabeth David: An Omelette And A Glass of Wine: A Short Review

Published in 1984, An Omelette and a Glass of Wine is a compilation of essays, articles, and reviews by Elizabeth David, one of Britain’s most influential food writers. Unlike a conventional cookbook, this book showcases David’s unparalleled skill as a storyteller and essayist, exploring food through a lens of culture, history, and personal reflection. Spanning nearly three decades of her writing, the collection is a celebration of food as both sustenance and art, infused with David’s wit, erudition, and passion.

Structure and Content

The book is divided into over 60 essays, drawn from David’s contributions to magazines, newspapers, and books. These essays are loosely organised but cover a wide array of topics:

1. Culinary Travelogues: Essays that evoke the sights, sounds, and tastes of Mediterranean markets, French cafés, and Italian trattorias.
2. Recipes and Reflections: While not recipe-heavy, the book includes practical advice on cooking alongside musings on dishes like soufflés, bouillabaisse, and the titular omelette.
3. Cultural and Historical Essays: David explores the origins of ingredients, culinary traditions, and the evolution of British and European food.
4. Book Reviews and Criticism: Reviews of food books and writers, showcasing David’s sharp intellect and often cutting wit.
5. Personal Anecdotes: Wry and intimate accounts of her own culinary adventures and misadventures, from foraging in rural France to hosting impromptu dinners in post-war London.

The essays vary in length and tone, offering a mix of deeply researched pieces, light-hearted observations, and heartfelt tributes to the joys of cooking and eating.

Writing Style

Elizabeth David’s prose is elegant, evocative, and unapologetically opinionated. Her descriptions of food and places are vivid and sensory, transporting readers to sun-dappled vineyards, bustling markets, or cosy kitchens. For example, her essay on the simplicity of an omelette paired with a glass of wine captures the essence of her philosophy: food as a source of pleasure, connection, and simplicity.

David’s wit is razor-sharp, and her essays often bristle with humour or cutting observations. Her critical reviews, particularly of other food writers, are refreshingly candid, though occasionally scathing. Despite her intellectual depth, her writing never feels inaccessible; instead, it invites readers to share her passion for food and culture.

Philosophy and Approach

David’s philosophy, woven throughout the book, centres on:

1. Simplicity: She champions uncomplicated, ingredient-driven cooking, arguing that good food requires care, not complexity.
2. Seasonality and Locality: David emphasises the importance of using fresh, seasonal produce and adapting recipes to what is locally available.
3. Respect for Tradition: Her essays are steeped in the culinary traditions of Europe, particularly France and Italy, though she is equally willing to critique or adapt those traditions.
4. Joy in Food: Above all, David conveys an enduring love for food and the ways it enhances life, whether through a humble omelette or an elaborate feast.

Standout Essays

Some of the most memorable essays in the collection include:

• “An Omelette and a Glass of Wine”: A meditation on the pleasures of simple food, perfectly cooked, accompanied by good company and a glass of wine.
• “A Nice Cup of Tea”: A characteristically opinionated piece on how tea should and should not be prepared.
• “Garlic Presses Are Utterly Useless”: A sharp critique of kitchen gadgets that highlights David’s disdain for unnecessary tools.
• “The Cooking of Tuscany”: A lyrical exploration of Tuscan cuisine and its focus on quality ingredients and rustic simplicity.
• “Syllabubs and Fruit Fools”: A charming essay on traditional British desserts, blending history with practical tips.

These essays reveal David’s versatility as a writer, capable of moving seamlessly between practical advice, cultural critique, and personal storytelling.

Strengths

1. Timeless Prose: David’s elegant and evocative writing style ensures the book remains as engaging today as when it was first published.
2. Broad Appeal: The essays will delight food enthusiasts, history buffs, and lovers of good writing alike.
3. Depth of Knowledge: David’s essays reflect her deep understanding of culinary traditions and her extensive travels across Europe.
4. Personality: Her wit, intelligence, and strong opinions shine through, making her voice distinctive and memorable.
5. Inspirational: While not a cookbook, the essays inspire readers to cook and savour food in a more thoughtful way.

Criticisms

1. Lack of Recipes: Readers seeking a traditional cookbook may find the lack of detailed recipes disappointing. The book is more a celebration of food than a practical guide.
2. Fragmented Format: As a collection of essays written over decades, the book lacks a unifying structure, which might make it feel disjointed to some readers.
3. Eurocentric Focus: David’s focus is predominantly on European cuisine, particularly French and Italian, with little attention to other global food traditions.

Impact and Legacy

An Omelette and a Glass of Wine encapsulates Elizabeth David’s enduring influence on food writing. By elevating food to a subject of cultural and intellectual significance, David paved the way for modern food writers like Nigel Slater, Ruth Reichl, and Anthony Bourdain. Her essays celebrate the artistry of cooking and the role of food in shaping identity, memory, and culture.

David’s emphasis on simplicity, quality ingredients, and culinary tradition continues to resonate in a world increasingly dominated by convenience foods and globalised tastes. The book also serves as a time capsule of mid-20th-century Europe, reflecting its culinary landscape with precision and charm.

Conclusion

An Omelette and a Glass of Wine is a literary feast, brimming with insight, humour, and passion. It showcases Elizabeth David at her finest, blending practical wisdom with cultural reflection in a way that transcends the genre of food writing. While it may not suit readers seeking detailed recipes or visual appeal, it is an essential read for anyone who values the art of good prose and the joy of good food. For lovers of culinary history, literature, or simply the pleasures of eating, this book is a timeless treasure.

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