DON WHILLANS – 1971 – ORIGINAL PRESS PHOTOGRAPH

Publisher: Not stated but stamp of Shields Gazette to verso
Price: £40.00
Date: October 25th, 1971
Photograph Size: 12.2cm x 16.5cm including margin
Format: Original press photograph
Edition: Not stated.
Special Features: This photograph is stamped and dated on the reverse with a description of the image.

Condition:

The photograph is in very good indeed, clean condition. There is slight creasing and a little marking to the reverse. The reverse side features stamps and a description of the photograph providing cast-iron provenance and authenticity.

Don Whillans: A Short Biography

Don Whillans was a prominent British mountaineer and rock climber, best known for his bold and pioneering ascents during the 1950s and 1960s. Whillans was a key figure in British climbing and played a significant role in some of the most important climbing achievements of his era. His tough, no-nonsense personality, combined with his exceptional climbing skill, made him a legendary figure in the mountaineering community.

Early Life and Background:

• Birth and Early Years: Donald Desbrow Whillans was born on May 18, 1933, in Salford, Lancashire, England. He grew up in a working-class family and left school at the age of 14 to become an apprentice plumber. Whillans’ early experiences in the rugged environment of northern England shaped his tough and resilient character.
• Introduction to Climbing: Whillans began climbing at an early age on the gritstone crags of the Peak District, a region known for its challenging and technical routes. His natural talent and fearless approach quickly distinguished him as a rising star in the British climbing scene.

Climbing Career:

• Partnership with Joe Brown: One of the most significant aspects of Whillans’ climbing career was his partnership with Joe Brown, another legendary British climber. Together, they formed a formidable team, making numerous first ascents and pushing the boundaries of what was possible in British climbing.
  • Notable Ascents: Whillans and Brown made the first ascent of several iconic routes, including the famous “Cenotaph Corner” in North Wales and “The Right Unconquerable” at Stanage Edge in the Peak District.
• Alpine and Himalayan Expeditions:
  • Alps: Whillans extended his climbing prowess to the European Alps, where he made several important ascents. He was involved in the first ascent of the West Face of the Aiguille du Dru in 1958, one of the most challenging climbs in the Alps at the time.
  • Himalayas: Whillans’ climbing achievements extended to the highest mountains in the world. He was part of the successful British expedition that made the first ascent of Annapurna’s South Face in 1970, one of the most difficult and dangerous climbs ever completed at the time. The route is still considered one of the most challenging in Himalayan mountaineering.
  • Mount Everest: Whillans was also a key member of the 1971 International Everest Expedition, though the team did not reach the summit due to bad weather.

Personality and Legacy:

• Toughness and Reputation: Whillans was known for his physical toughness and no-nonsense approach, both on and off the mountain. His reputation as a hard man was legendary, and he was often described as a climber who relied on sheer strength and determination as much as technical skill.
• Whillans Harness: In addition to his climbing achievements, Whillans made a significant contribution to climbing safety by designing the Whillans Harness, a safety harness that became standard equipment for climbers for many years.
• Legacy in Climbing: Whillans’ influence on British and international climbing was profound. He helped to push the sport forward during a period of significant change and was a mentor to many younger climbers. His partnership with Joe Brown is often cited as one of the most important in the history of British climbing.

Later Years and Death:

• Retirement: After his active climbing career, Whillans remained involved in the mountaineering community, though he eventually retired from serious climbing due to health issues, including heart problems exacerbated by his heavy smoking and drinking.
• Death: Don Whillans passed away on August 4, 1985, at the age of 52, following a heart attack. His death was a significant loss to the climbing world, but his legacy continues to be honoured by climbers around the world.

Don Whillans is remembered as one of the most iconic and influential climbers of his generation. His contributions to the sport, both in terms of his climbing achievements and his impact on climbing culture, have left an indelible mark on the history of mountaineering.

Location: Map drawer C: Folder: 3002

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