The Hard Years. His Autobiography: Signed By Joe Brown

The Hard Years. His Autobiography: Signed By Joe Brown

Author: Joe Brown
Price: £225
Publisher: Gollancz, London, UK
Edition: First edition
Publication Date: 1967
Format: Original cloth gilt. Dustwrapper
Condition: Very good in very good dustwrapper
Pages: 256

Published by Gollancz, London, UK. Date: 1967. 1st edition. Original cloth. Dustwrapper. Size: 15.2cm x 22.3cm. pp. 256. Signed by Joe Brown to the front blank endpaper. With an account of the first ascent of The Mustagh Tower, his expedition to The Valley of The Assassins with Sir John Hunt and his ascent of the west face of The Dru with Don Whillans. The autobiography of one of the finest climbers of his generation. Binding nice and tight with only very minor fading to the boards. Pages nice and clean. A very good indeed, tight, clean copy in very good, slightly nicked, creased, chipped and rubbed dustwrapper. Signed copies of the first edition are very scarce.

Joe Brown: A Short Biography

Joe Brown, often referred to as “The Master,” was one of the most celebrated rock climbers and mountaineers of the 20th century. Known for his innovative climbing techniques and groundbreaking ascents, he transformed the sport, setting new standards in difficulty and style.

Early Life

• Joe Brown grew up in a working-class family in Ardwick, Manchester. He left school at 14 to work as an apprentice plumber.
• During his teenage years, he discovered climbing in the gritstone quarries of Derbyshire and the Peak District. Despite limited resources, his natural talent for climbing quickly became evident.

Climbing Career Highlights

British Climbing Scene:

• Brown was part of the “Rock and Ice Club,” a group of climbers from northern England who pushed the boundaries of rock climbing in the 1950s.
• Gritstone Classics: He established numerous difficult routes on gritstone, including The Right Unconquerable (Stanage Edge) and Cenotaph Corner (Dinas Cromlech, North Wales). These routes remain iconic to climbers today.

Major Ascents:

1. Cerro Torre (Patagonia, 1952):
   • One of the most challenging peaks of its time.
   • Alongside Don Whillans, Brown made significant progress, showcasing their alpine skills.
2. Kangchenjunga (1955):
   • Joe Brown made history as part of the first successful ascent of Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres), the world’s third-highest mountain, under Charles Evans’ leadership.
   • Brown, along with George Band, stopped just below the summit out of respect for the local religious belief that the top of the mountain was sacred.
3. Old Man of Hoy (1967):
   • Brown became widely recognized after a televised first ascent of this 450-foot sea stack in Scotland, which he climbed with Ian McNaught-Davis.
4. Indian Face (Eiger, Switzerland):
   • His climbs on European routes, particularly the Eiger, demonstrated his versatility as both a rock climber and mountaineer.

International Expeditions:

• Brown explored climbing opportunities worldwide, from the Himalayas to Patagonia and North America. His pioneering spirit led him to attempt peaks in remote and challenging environments.

Influence and Legacy

• Technical Innovation:
  • Joe Brown was renowned for his bold, ground-up climbing style, often leading routes with minimal protection. His creativity in finding holds and problem-solving made him a legend among climbers.
• Mentorship:
  • Brown mentored and inspired many climbers, emphasizing self-reliance, humility, and respect for nature.
• Public Image:
  • His televised climbs and charming personality helped bring climbing into the public eye, making it more accessible to a wider audience.

Business Ventures

• In the 1960s, Brown founded Joe Brown Shops, specializing in climbing and outdoor equipment. These shops remain iconic within the climbing community, providing high-quality gear for generations of climbers.

Awards and Recognition

• Brown received numerous accolades for his contributions to climbing, including the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Piolet d’Or in recognition of his influence on modern mountaineering.
• His routes and techniques remain benchmarks in climbing, and his philosophy of minimal impact on the environment has influenced generations of climbers.

Personal Life

• Joe Brown married Val Wilson, a climber and writer. The couple settled in North Wales, where Brown remained active in the climbing community throughout his life.
• Known for his humility, wit, and resourcefulness, Brown avoided the limelight and preferred to let his climbing speak for itself.

Death and Legacy

Joe Brown passed away on 15 April 2020, aged 89. His death marked the end of an era in British climbing, but his routes, techniques, and ethos continue to inspire climbers worldwide.

Brown’s story is one of determination, ingenuity, and passion for the mountains. He is remembered as one of the greatest climbers of all time and a pioneer who reshaped the world of mountaineering.

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